Costume Breakdown: DC Bombshells Catwoman

I haven’t done a tutorial or dress diary post in so long! I used to love writing these, but between my job and photographing a lot of events, I just haven’t had the time. However, I have been trying to take progress photos regardless, and I just uploaded a bunch from my DC Bombshells Catwoman build last winter. I’m really pleased with how that costume came out, so I wanted to share how I made it.

Inspiration Images
My primary references were these two images. The first is an illustration by Ant Lucia, who did most of the designs for the DC Bombshells.
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The second is a photo of the statue that was produced based on Lucia’s art. I also own one of these statues, so I could take a look at it in three dimensions.
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I also looked at the sketches that can be found in the book, The Art of DC Comics Bombshells. Based on these references, I broke down the costume into its component pieces: the dress, the hat, the gloves, the jewelry, the shoes/stockings/garters, and the props.

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How to Make a Rainbow Dash Cosplay

MAGFest

Here are some notes on the Rainbow Dash costume I wore at MAGFest. I made the decision to throw this together rather late in the game, so a lot of the components were bought from Amazon (yay, prime shipping!)

Purchased materials:
Leg Avenue Rainbow Dash Costume (I had this already on hand, because I bought it to use in a Halloween horse show last fall. For a picture of how that outfit turned out, see here.)
Light blue hooded sweatshirt (pullover, not zippered, I used the “sky blue” color)
Blue gym shorts with white contrast trim (I used the “brilliant blue” color)
Rainbow thigh high socks

The first thing I did was more firmly attach the ears to the headband that came with the packaged Rainbow Dash outfit. Hot glue all the way! I used the wings as-is straight from the package.

Next, I removed the cutie mark patch from the costume dress. It was sewn on there in only a few places, so some quick but careful seam ripping was all that was required. Once the patch was detached, I sewed it to the front of the hoodie, using white thread in a hand back stitch. I recommend a back stitch because it has a little give due to its overlapping looping structure. That elasticity helps keep the stitches from pulling out when the knit fabric of the sweatshirt stretches.
Rainbow Dash

Then it was on to the wig and tail. The Leg Avenue costume includes a rainbow wig and a tail (the latter of which is actually just a small ponytail attachment, like you see on anime wigs, but without a jaw clip). They’re decent quality, but quite frizzy and curly. You could leave them as is, but I wanted a straighter look.
Rainbow Dash

Enter several pots of hot water (four pots, to be exact). I followed these instructions on Alexa’s Style Blog. The only thing I did differently was I used the stand for one of my dress forms instead of a camera tripod to hold the wig. Once the wig and tail were fully soaked, I left them to dry in the shower.
Rainbow Dash

After they were fully dry, I worked some hair gel (Tigi Bed Head Control Freak Serum) through them and sprayed them with hairspray.
Rainbow Dash

Rainbow Dash

At that point I was pretty much done. I removed the drawstring from the shorts, because they stayed up fine without it, and doing that eliminated some bunching at the waist. I sewed up the drawstring channel holes, although that wasn’t necessary.
Rainbow Dash

The rainbow socks had a small hole in them when they arrived, but I did not have time exchange them, meaning I had to darn that myself. I wore them over thick dance tights, and they stayed up just fine.
MAGFest

MAGFest

Overall, this was a fun and easy costume to both make and wear. Although the Leg Avenue outfit looks cheesy, I found that it worked well in terms of providing base materials (wings, ears, wig, tail, and cutie mark patch) to work from. Considering the money and effort required to put together a wig, tail, and wings from other sources, it’s not a bad place to start from. I may make or buy fancier wings and a wig later, but this was great given the time I had to make this costume.

Ikea Hack Ironing Table

Mike and I recently built an ironing table for my new craft room. I’m really happy with how it came out. It’s got a 20″x42″ rectangular ironing surface, which will be great for ironing lengths of fabric and in-progress projects. (I’ll still have a normal board for ironing garments.)

Ironing Table

Here is a brief rundown of how we made it. First, I have to thank Custom Style for posting about how she made a plywood ironing board top, as we basically just copied her method. Second, I have to give credit also to Attire For Your Inner Fire for posting about how she put wheels on an Ikea Expedit/Kallax shelving unit, as that provided us the idea for how to add portability and height to our table.

Materials:
-One 2×2 Ikea Kallax (formerly Expedit) shelving unit
-Two sets of Ikea Kallax casters
-Three sets of Ikea Kallax two-drawer inserts
-One Ikea Kallax cabinet insert
Panyl vinyl stickers, three sets for Kallax drawers and one set for a Kallax cabinet (I used the Moroccan pattern in the pewter color)
-A piece of 3/4″ birch plywood, cut to 42″x20″ (or your desired size, Home Depot cut it for us)
-10 1-1/2″ x 2′ x 2-3/4″ L brackets
-20 #8 5/8″ phillips pan head screws, 2 for each L bracket (make sure the screws are not longer than your plywood is thick–sometimes 3/4″ plywood can be slightly thinner than 3/4″ in actuality)
-Enough aluminized ironing board fabric to cover your plywood (I bought 2 yards of 44″ wide at JoAnn’s and had some left over)
-Either enough 1/4″ thick cotton batting to cover your plywood, or 1/8″ thick to cover with a double thickness (so you would need twice as much)
-Staple gun and staples that can go through several thicknesses of batting over plywood

Start by placing your shelf unit on top of your plywood, centered. Trace around it, and then install the L brackets so they are just on those lines. Screw down the L brackets (you probably want to drill pilot holes, but be careful not to drill through all the way). You should place three L brackets evenly spaced along the long sides, and two on the short sides. Place your plywood top on top of the shelf to make sure it fits. Do not actually attach the top to the shelf.
Ironing Table

Then install the Kallax casters following the included directions from Ikea. At this point this is what our table looked like (before I had removed the darker colored drawers we used to have in there).
Ironing Table

Gather your Kallax drawer and cabinet fronts. Make sure they are clean, ready for the Panyl stickers to be applied.
Ironing Table

Apply the Panyl stickers according to their included instructions. They are pretty forgiving if you need to move them because they didn’t come out straight at first.
Ironing Table

Assemble the drawer and cabinet inserts according to Ikea’s directions. Put them in the shelving unit.
Ironing Table

Staple the cotton batting to the plywood top.
Ironing Table

Follow the batting with the ironing board fabric
Ironing Table

Place the top back on the shelf. I did not bother to actually screw the top to the shelf, because it stays in place without doing that. Then you are done!